Note that this article refers only to the milling attachment part of the machine. For information abut the lathe, see Lathe
Class Red Equipment
High risk of injury
See Workshop Safety
Training is required to use this tool
This machine is not yet operational. The following work needs to be done before it can be used:
General cleanup and way oilingFitting of a no-volt-release (NVR) switchFitting of cable connector- Sourcing a vice
Fabricating a draw barFabricating a draw bar ejector- Opening up the gearbox to find the source of the rattling noise
Once these jobs are done, training will be available.
You are responsible for ensuring your own safety; do not operate this machine if you do not feel capable of doing so safely. Trainers will always be happy to assist you if you need it, and would much rather be involved before problems occur, than after.
Spindle speeds can be calculated using our HackMill web app.
- Only those who have been trained by the room lead, and have signed a usage agreement, are permitted to operate the machine.
- When using this machine, loose clothing must be tucked in, jewellery should be removed, and long hair should be tied back.
- Never change gears (spindle speed or auto-feed/threading) when the spindle is spinning.
- Do not mount any side-milling tools in the drill chuck. These should only eb used in the ER20 collet chuck.
- Never leave it running unattended.
- Always wear safety glasses while the machine is running.
- Never put any body part anywhere which could get trapped or cut while the machine is running.
- Never crash the tool.
- Never cut into the vice or table.
- Never use abrasives on this machine, either by hand or in the spindle.
Using this machine has additionally charges to cover the cost of maintenance, tooling and consumables.
- £1 per hour if using your own cutters
- £2 per hour if using hackspace HSS cutters
Chargeable time is measured when the machine is being used. We expect users to have integrity in reporting and paying for time used.
- Spindle:
- 350 - 1450rpm in 4 steps
- 0.18kW AC motor
- MT2 (Morse taper #2) spindle nose
- 10mm spindle bore
- ER20 collet tool holder
- Motion:
- Metric handwheel graduations
- 40mm quill throw
- 3 axes
- Max travel:
- 650mm X axis
- 135mm Y axis
- ??mm Z axis (With no tool stick-out from ER20 tool holder)
- Auto-feed in X and Y axes using lathe feed
- Vice:
- Do not ever change gears while in motion, spindle or auto-feed.
- The gears can only mesh when not moving, and the gears in the mill are make of a fibre/resin composite, and will break very easily.
- This machine is not very rigid or powerful, so should only be used for light milling with HSS cutters.
- Best results will be achieved when the quill is retracted and locked, and all axes not being moved are locked.
- Hackspace carbide cutters should not be used on this machine.
- The X-axis feed gearbox must be manually disengaged before manually feeding the X-axis using the hand wheel.
- This is done by moving the lower gearbox lever into the notch on the top-left of the gearbox.
- When making precise Y-axis cuts (across the bed), the carriage can be locked in place using a 13mm spanner and the bolt on the top-right of the carriage.
- When making precise X-axis cuts (along the bed), the cross slide can be locked in place using a 5mm hex key and the bolt in the centre of the right hand side of the cross slide.
- The height of the column can be locked by tightening the bolt on the left side of the mill head.
- Changing the Z-height of the mill does not guarantee that the X & Y positions will be the same after the move. If the position must be retained, but more extension is needed, use the quill to drop the tool further.
- When milling with the quill extended, the position can be locked by tightening the bolt on the right side of the milling head.
- The milling head can be tilted if required.
- It is recommended to restrict the head tilt to no more than 45 degrees left or right.
- When returning the mill to the upright position, it is your responsibility to ensure that it is prefectly aligned (or "trammed") by using a dial indicator on the table.
- Ensure that the locking nuts on either side of the milling head are tight before milling.
This machine is designed to cut metals and plastics. Do not use any other materials without first confirming suitability with the room lead.
- Nylon
- Acetal (Delrin)
- Brass
- Bronze
- Aluminium
- Steel
- Cast iron (be sure to clean up chips afterwards)
- Stainless steel (be careful with feeds and speeds
This is a non-exhaustive list.
This is the same as any normal drill chuck. Tools can be swapped by turning the chuck key anticlockwise to release the tool, and clockwise to grip onto a tool.
The dril chuck is only to be used for tools which cut stright up and down. No side milling should be done using the drill chuck. This is because it has not draw bar, and side-forces will release the taper and drop the chuck from the spindle.
- Loosen the draw bar at the top of the spindle using a spanner.
- Press the collet chuck out by screwing the draw bar release fixture onto the top of the spindle, and screwing the release screw down.
- Make sure that the collet chuck does not drop when it is released.
- Clamp the tool holder into a vice and use the spanner to release the collet.
- The spanner should be in the yellow box with the collets.
- The nut will first loosen, then bind again, hold the tool before pushing through the second bind, as it will drop back down into the collet when that releases.
- Remove the tool from the collet.
- Fully unscrew the nut and remove the collet by pressing the narrow end toward the side of the nut.
- If the collet does not release, try pushing from a different angle.
- Return the collet to its storage box.
- Locate the new collet and check that the new tool fits into it.
- Do not force a tool into a collet. If it does not fit when the collet is loose, a bigger collet must be used.
- Do not squeeze the collet onto a tool which is smaller than the given range of a collet. Over-tightening will damage the collet.
- Press the new collet into the nut in reverse to how the previous collet was removed.
- Screw the collet nut back into the tool holder until it starts to give a small amount of resistance.
- Insert the tool and tighten by hand until the tool is gripped.
- Use the spanner to tighten the collet down, but do not use excessive force.
- Reinsert the taper into the spindle, and gently tighten the draw bar.
- The draw bar should only be snug, not tight.
- Most small parts can be clamped in the vice, but some will be too large and will need to be clamped directly to the table.
- Use the set of parallels to raise the workpiece up to a height where all operations can be done.
- Ensure that the parallels will not be hit by any operations where the tool passes all the way through the workpiece.
- Ensure that at least 3mm of vice jaw is gripping the workpiece.
- Tighten the vice securely by hand. Do not use a hammer or handle extender to tighten the vice further.
- If clamping to the table, use a sacrificial piece under the workpiece if the tool is going to cut all the way through the material.
- Sacrificial material should be at least 3mm thick and no harder than the workpiece. The ideal choice would be aluminium sheet.
- If clamping to the table, ensure that both the tool and the holder will not hit the clamps during the operations.
- Please only use the provided clamping set unless you have run it past a room lead in advance.
These are the tools and accessories which we already have. See the wishlist for things that we would like to acquire.
Workholding and Toolholding
- MT2 ER20 collet chuck
- MT2 drill chuck
- MT2 annular cutter holder
Cutting Tools
- Centre drill set
- HSS endmills
Measuring Tools
- 10mm dial test indicator (DTI) (0.01mm precision)
- Digital callipers
Accessories